Casting for Distance

Jason G. Freund
Aug 3
9 min read

Ok, let's get all the caveats out of the way. Yes, distance is often not the biggest concern for fly casters. Too many anglers bomb casts further than they need to or should and in doing so, they catch fewer fish. Trying to cast too far often brings out flaws in your cast and helps create bad habits. The average Driftless fly angler that can accurately cast 20 to 30 feet will catch plenty of trout. In terms of the important things about fly casting, distance should be down the list. But sometimes, you have to go "The Distance".

Rarely does the Driftless fly angler need to cast for distance - but there are times when it comes in handy. These last few years have been low water years, which means that the fish are "spookier" and sometimes getting within a more reasonable casting distance is nearly impossible. Quite a few years ago, Henry and I were fishing "The Highway", our code name for a Driftless stream with a highway nearby (really narrows it down, doesn't it?). The fish were pretty skittish, and we figured out the only way to catch them was booming out 60+ foot casts and stripping the leach. After catching one, we gave them a couple of minutes to settle back down, then we'd catch another one. Sure, it doesn't happen often, but it is nice to have that distance in the arsenal when you need it.

Two people fishing from a small green boat on a calm river, surrounded by tall trees. The mood is peaceful and serene. — Bass fishing on a northern Wisconsin river - a place where a longer cast will give you more opportunities.

The versatile angler, those of us that enjoy chasing Smallmouth Bass or other "scaly, rough fish" as much as trout, often need to cast more than 30 or 40 feet. And often we are doing it with flies that are heavy, air-resistant, or both. These things make any casting a little harder and make distance casting quite a bit more challenging. Once you have a repeatably accurate cast; working on distance can make you a better angler and open up some other options for you.

Working on Distance Casting

I am a reasonably decent caster, but it often goes all to hell when I try to cast for distance. The longer you cast, the more your flaws are magnified. It is important - when you are practicing, you are creating muscle memory. So keep in mind those basic components of the cast. The rod tip needs to move in a straight line, you need the proper application of power, and you need to add a double haul into all that is going on. One of the things I see when I watch really good distance casters is how relatively little effort it is. Certainly it requires more energy than does a 30 or 40 foot cast, but it also should not be aerobic exercise.

Before getting to the double haul - we'll get there - let's see what Tim Rajeff, one of the world's best distance casters, has to say about distance casting...

This first tip reminds me of a Crash Camp trip on the Lower Wisconsin River with my friend Mike. Ben, our guide and good friend, was laughing about how much we were rocking the boat - literally, not figuratively - while reaching out for "crashing" smallies.

Perplexity strikes again - here is an AI generated list of things to think about when practicing your distance casting.

To improve your fly casting distance, focus on refining technique, optimizing your casting stroke, and practicing key skills. The most effective strategies include:

Master the Double Haul: This is essential for increasing line speed, which is critical for distance. Proficiency with the double haul allows you to add significant distance to your cast1.
Track Straight and Cast “Over the Top”: Keep your rod tip moving in a straight line, both vertically and horizontally, to create a tight, efficient loop. Avoid sweeping arcs, which waste energy and reduce distance14.
Lengthen Your Casting Stroke: As you carry more line, extend your casting stroke. Think of your arm and rod as a longer lever—the longer the stroke, the more you can accelerate the line1 24.
Drift, Don’t Creep: After your backcast, let the rod drift back further in line with the fly line as it straightens. This lengthens your stroke and helps you load the rod more efficiently for the forward cast1 2 6.
Be Smooth with Power Application: Apply power progressively—start with minimal force and accelerate smoothly to a hard stop at the end of each stroke. Overpowering leads to tailing loops and loss of control1 2 5.
Aim Higher: For longer casts, stop your forward cast slightly earlier and aim higher to give your line more time in the air, increasing distance1 3.
Carry More Line, Then Shoot: Practice carrying more line in the air before the final cast, then shoot the remaining line through the guides. This requires good form and control1.
Tight Loops: Focus on creating narrow, controlled loops. The tighter the loop, the less air resistance and the farther your line will travel24.
Adjust Trajectory for Conditions: On windy days, aim higher and use a longer overhang; on calm days, lower your trajectory and shorten the overhang for better turnover2 3.
Use Appropriate Fly Line: A shooting head is often the best choice for maximum distance, followed by long belly or double taper lines. Standard weight-forward lines are less effective for extreme distance1.

Consistent practice with these techniques will yield significant improvements in your distance casting. Remember, distance comes from technique and timing, not just power5 7.

I could not have said it better myself! AI did a very nice job with that - as it tends to do for topics that are fairly technical in nature. I included the above video as it is one of the most critical pieces to keep in mind when casting for distance.

The Double Haul

The double haul is essentially a way to increase line speed. Increasing line speed helps load the rod which means the rod can do more work. More work means you can cast a longer line. I use the double haul a lot while trout fishing as line speed helps my accuracy. It is particularly useful in cutting through the wind. And it is pretty much a necessity once you start casting 50 feet or more. I am so accustomed to double hauling, I often am doing it when I really do not need to. Over time, it just becomes another part of the rhythm of the cast.

Back to Perplexity...

The double haul is a fly casting technique that uses a coordinated pull on the fly line with your non-casting (line) hand during both the backcast and forward cast. This maneuver dramatically increases line speed, allowing for longer casts, better performance in wind, and easier delivery of larger flies241.

How it works:

On the backcast, as you bring the rod back, you simultaneously pull down on the fly line with your line hand (the "haul") while accelerating the rod. After the haul, you reposition your line hand back toward the reel to prepare for the forward cast12.
On the forward cast, you repeat the process: as you accelerate the rod forward, you again pull down on the line with your line hand, then release or "shoot" the line at the end of the cast for maximum distance12.

Key points:

The hauls are timed with the acceleration of the rod in each direction—pulling during the power phase of both the backcast and forward cast21.
The motion should be smooth and coordinated, not forced; too much or poorly timed hauling can cause casting problems like tailing loops2.
The double haul is best learned after mastering basic casting skills, as it requires good timing and rod control21.

In summary, the double haul is a synchronized, two-stage pull on the fly line with your line hand, performed during both the backcast and forward cast, greatly increasing line speed and casting distance214.

I'm back...As we try to aerialize more line, gravity is harder to fight and timing is even more critical. The haul, in part, helps with that by increasing line speed which reduces the amount of time that the line is in the air and thus the effects of gravity. If I felt more qualified to do it, I could write an entire post on the double haul. Fortunately, there is no shortage of information on the internet and in books from better casters than myself. Here is a small(ish), curated list of place to get your research started.

The Role of Equipment

To be clear, better equipment will not make you a better caster, nor will it make your double haul work better. That is still a matter of timing and technique, however, there are equipment details that can help with distance. You will get more distance out of a faster rod - but are limited by your ability to cast it. And you will get more distance out of a line that has a large proportion of its weight in the head - a shooting head or an aggressive weight forward line. It is simple physics - the larger mass and thus increased momentum will carry the thinner, lighter running line further.

Practice, Practice, Practice!

The same "rules" for practicing are true in working on your distance casting. In fact, they are probably more important because more can go wrong as we try to stretch out our cast. And because we are using more energy, we will get tired faster. Casting practice means you are doing a lot more casting than you will when fishing, so you will get tired faster. For me, once I get tired when casting, it all goes to shit. So, it is time to grab the oars, take the rear seat, or take a little break and hydrate. Or when practicing, it is time to quit or at least take a good, long break.

If I am going on a guided trip - not something I am able to do very often - or a fishing trip with friends, I am sure to practice casting before the trip. That practice should be targeted. For example, fishing the aforementioned "Crash", I want to be sure that I can cast about 60 feet, as quickly with as few false casts as possible. You don't always have to cover those 60 feet, but it is nice to know you can when you need to. The "Crash" and fishing for carp on Great Lakes flats are about as close to saltwater fishing as you will find in the Midwest. Practicing will help me make the most of the trip.

Before I make my usual summer trips fish bass in northern Wisconsin Rivers, I am working not only on my double haul but I am practicing casting wind-resistant flies like poppers, which adds another level of difficulty. I am hoping to be throwing large streamers or poppers with a wind-catching face during those trips, so I have an old wind-resistant fly with the hook cut off to practice with. I recently bought a new fly rod at Musky Fool - probably my first in about a decade. They had a hookless Game Changer to put on the leader and it made quite a difference in how the rods I tested cast.

Wrapping it Up

Practice that is as similar to fishing conditions as possible - without the "hassle" of worrying about those pesky fish - is the gold standard. If it gets a little windy, grab a rod and cast in different directions to see how the wind affects your casting. This will get you better and more comfortable in the wind. While busting out a cast or two as far as you can is fun once in awhile, it is not really practicing. Practicing should be with a purpose.

Close-up of a colorful fishing fly with black, purple, and orange feathers on a wooden and cork stand. Neutral background setting. — Casting large, wind resistant flies like this single Buford takes some practice.

I certainly don't have all the answers, I am not the best caster in the world, but I think about it pretty frequently. It is the most fun part of fly fishing and the one thing we can all improve at. Anything you want to be better at requires effort and practice. Distance casting is not simple and it will not always be necessary, but it sure is nice to be able to do it when you need to.